Rēwena Bread
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Rēwena Bread, or Parāoa Rēwena ("flour leavened") emerged among the Māori people in New Zealand during the 19th century. It was a fusion between the indigenous potato (brought to New Zealand in 1722 onwards by European sailors and James Cook) and the European-introduced wheat (brought in the same way in 1772).
The Māori created Rēwena bread around the time of the Otago Gold Rush, using a fermented potato starter, known as a 'bug'. It uses mashed potatoes, mixed with sugar, flour and water and is fermented over several days. As commercial yeast was scarce in the early days of colonisation, this was an ideal 'workaround'.
As time went on, the recipe showed alterations as people sought ways to ensure that the 'bug' leavened the dough, especially during colder months. This initially involved the addition of a small quantity of soda and, later on, the addition of commercial yeasts. However, authentic Rēwena contains neither soda nor commercial yeast. It relies on a strong natural 'bug'.
The first references to Rēwena bread in Māori date from January 2862, in the final issue of Ko Aotearoa or The Maori Recorder, which was published bilongually, bringing Māori and settlers together.
Family 'bugs' were developed and maintained across generations, both in writing and orally, and the bread was celebrated at family gatherings.
Today, the bread has UNESCO status through the work of Whanganui baker, George Jackson.
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| George Jackson of Whanganui |
Rēwena bread is characterised by a tangy, soft-crumb loaf that is the symbol of cultural resiliency.
Before we start.
A word about Potatoes.
Traditional Māori potatoes for Rēwena would include varieties such as Karaparerā, Huakaroro, Raupī, Moemoe and Tūtaekuri.
If you're in the UK or Europe, you can successfully substitute varieties such as King Edward, Maris Piper or Desirée. In the US or the Middle East, you can successfully substitute varieties such as Russet Burbank. You're looking for a floury potato with a high starch content.
This chart might help:
Ok, so let's make a start.
The bread is made in two stages. The first stage is the 'bug' or starter and the second stage is the making of the actual dough ready for baking.
INGREDIENTS
THE STARTER OR 'BUG'
1 medium-sized potato (see notes above). It should weigh about 100 - 120 gms. It does not need to be peeled, but it should be washed and diced.
250 gms water
10 gms sugar (plus a further 40 - 30 gms for use of the programme of daily feedings)
250 - 300 gms of plain flour (to be used over the course of the daily feedings).
A note about the flour.:
Use a low-gluten flour (11.5% - 12% protein). An all-purpose flour or an Italian Tipo 00 flour is perfect. In the UK, supermarket plain' flour (9% - 11.5%) would match plain New Zealand flour.
THE BREAD DOUGH
Method 1:
750 gms plain flour (see note above)
15 gms fine sea salt
10 gms sugar
250 gms active Rēwena starter/bug
300 gms warm water (or reserved potato water gathered over the period between starting the bug and baking)
In addition for Method 2:
15 gms bicarbonate of soda/baking soda (see note below)
In addition for Method 3:
7 gms instant active yeast (see note below)
A note on the additional use of yeast:
The success of the Rēwena bread lies in the strength of your 'bug' or starter. A well-fed bug will be showing lots of growth and the presence of the gas necessary to demonstrate fitness for purpose. This requires a good programme of conscientious feeding and a warm environment. During Māori cold spells, home bakers would help the bug along by adding a small quantity of baking soda or, later on, and as I am also doing here, a small quantity of commercial yeast. The additional use of yeast helps to lift the dough, provide for an airy crust and also helps balance the sourness from the fermentation process. The leaving process is predominantly undertaken by the 'bug' or starter.
OK, let's make the 'bug' or starter.
Day 1: Dice the potato and boil it in 250 gms of water until the potato is soft. Strain off the water into a cup and mash the potato.
Mix 50 gms of the mashed potato with 180 gms of potato water (you may need to make this up with tap water if you've lost some during the boiling stage). Add 10 gms of sugar, 120 gms of flour and mix to a thick batter.
Cover loosely and place in a warm place for 24 hours until it's bubbly.
Day 4: Add 20 gms of sugar, 80 gms plain flour. Cover and leave at room temperature (unless very cold, in which case, return to your warm place).
Day 5 :Add 10 gms of sugar, 80 gms plain flour . Cover and leave at room temperature (unless very cold, in which case, return to your warm place).A healthy rēwena bread starter "bug" typically looks bubbly with visible fermentation activity and has increased in size. It has a sour, yeasty smell that indicates the development of natural wild yeasts and bacteria. The starter will be somewhat thick, with lots of bubbles throughout, similar to a sourdough starter but often softer due to the potato content.
If kept warm and fed regularly with flour, sugar, and potato water, the starter should double in size and be lively enough to use in dough by day 5. If it smells rotten or has no bubbles, it may have died or needs feeding and warmth.
Now, it's time to make the dough and bake the bread.
THE BREAD DOUGH
METHOD 1:
750 gms plain flour (see note above)
15 gms fine sea salt
10 gms sugar
250 gms active Rēwena starter/bug
300 gms warm water (or reserved potato water gathered over the period between starting the bug and baking)
METHOD 2:
add an additional 15 gms of bicarbonate of soda/baking soda
OR, INSTEAD, FOR
METHOD 3:
Add 7 gms instant active yeast.
DO NOT ADD BOTH BAKING SODA OR YEAST - JUST DECIDE ON ONE OF THE OTHER. BAKING SODA IS MORE AUTHENTIC AND 'OLDER' BUT INSTANT YEAST WILL GIVE YOU A GOOD RISE AND A LIGHT, MORE AIRY BREAD.
Using the quantities in the ingredients above, add the flour to a large bowl, and mix in the sugar and the salt. Mix well.
Add 250 gms of the starter or 'bug', sprinkle on EITHER the instant active yeast OR the bicarbonate of soda and add 200 gms of the water.
Knead for at least 10 - 15 minutes until you have a soft dough that should not be overly sticky. If it's too dry, add more water. If it's too wet, add a little more flour.
Using bicarbonate of soda, Rēwena bread dough does not strictly need to double in size before baking, though it will need a proofing period of 1-3 hours (or longer) until it noticeably rises or nearly doubles for optimal texture. It will all depend on the strength of your bug and the temperature of your proofing environment.
However, if, like me, you're using commercial yeast to help the 'bug' along, then you'll need to have an initial proof to double the volume of the dough and then, after knocking it back (de-gassing it), it'll need to be shaped and second-proofed in its baking container before baking.
Remember to watch the dough, not the clock.
Using baking soda, the dough rises less dramatically than wheat bread or using this formula and commercial yeast due to its potato starter and fermentation profile—expect subtle expansion with baking soda rather than full doubling in cooler conditions. In warm spots, using baking soda it may take 2-6 hours or up to 24 hours. Using yeast, it should proof in about an hour and a half and second proof in abut an hour. With baking soda, you can shape and bake when puffy and active, even if not fully doubled.
To bake, preheat the oven to 190⁰C (Fan 180⁰) / 375⁰F (Fan 355⁰F). Bake for about 40 minutes or until golden brown and hollow when tapped on the bottom.
Cool on a rack before slicing.
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