Cypriot Tahiniopita
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The scent of a Sunday morning...
Tahinopita (Greek: ταχινόπιτα) is a traditional Cypriot sweet bread, often referred to as a Tahini roll. It's a breakfast or vegan snack and often enjoyed during Lent when dairy and eggs are forbidden.
A note about the dough
The dough of the Cypriot Tahiniopita is closer to a pastry than a bread. It is a bread, however, as by adding a little yeast, the dough is encouraged to rise. The flour should be of a lower protein level than strong bread flour so in the UK, I'd use plain flour and in the US, I'd use a weaker All-Purpose flour. In both cases, I'd supplement with a little Tipo OO flour - but again, check the protein level. Some Tipo OO flours are very strong. Stronger flour produces a more bread-like consistency.
A note about the liquid
Sparkling water or even lemonade helps to give the dough a boost and make it even lighter.
A note about the tahini
You'll notice that there is a fair bit of tahini. This is deliberate. When the Cypriots prefer not to add yeast, the flaky dough almost fries in the tahini as it permeates the layers. In such cases, there's often the same amount of tahini as there is flour.
Because I'm using a little yeast, I'm cutting back on the tahini, but there is still enough to 'do the job'.
A Note about the quantities
You'll find Cypriot bakers who produce one large Tahiniopita out of this quantity of dough, and others who produce them at different sizes. I'm producing 10 individual Tahiniopita by weighing the dough and then portioning it out into small balls which will rest so the dough relaxes and makes them easier to roll out
and finally,
A note about the spices.
Traditionally, Tahiniopita uses ground mahleb and ground mastic. However, these might not be readily available, so there are alternatives. You'll find these in the chart below. Alternative #1 uses ground anise seed and almond extract, and Alternative #2 uses fennel seed and nutmeg.
N.B. ALL SPICES ARE GROUND.
However, remember that in all three cases, the spices are IN ADDITION to cinnamon, not as an alternative. Don't forget the cinnamon.
INGREDIENTS (for 6 Tahiniopita)
For the dough
250 gms Plain (AP) flour at 10.5% - 11.5% protein
150 gms Italian Tipo 00 flour at a similar protein level.
40 gms caster sugar
5 gms fine sea salt
4 gms ground cinnamon
7 gms instant active yeast
40 gms light olive or sunflower oil
250 gms sparkling water or lemonade (added gradually with 30 gms in reserve if needed)
and the spices as above in the table
For the filling
250 gms tahini + possibly a little warm water to create a slurry
100 gms caster sugar
5 gms ground cinnamon
For the glaze
20 gms of tahini or a little oil for brushing over the buns
Light syrup made from 80 gms caster sugar + 80 gms water + a squeeze of lemon, brought to a boil and simmered until the correct consistency and then cooled.
Sesame seeds for sprinkling.
METHOD
Step : Make the syrup and set it aside.
Step 2: Make the dough:
Mix the flours, yeast, sugar, salt, spices (see above for Cypriot, Alternative #1 and Alternative #2) and cinnamon.
Add the oil and rub through.
Gradually add the sparkling water / Lemonade in stages until you have a soft and tacky dough that just cleans the bowl,
Continue to knead for 8 minutes until it is elastic and soft.
Cover and allow to rise until it JUST doubles. It should take 45 - 60 minutes in a reasonably warm kitchen. If you let it overproof, it'll make the dough too much like bread.
While you're waiting, prepare the filling. The tahini mix should be easily spreadable but not runny.
Now, once the dough has doubled....
Tip the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, knock it back (de-gas), weigh it, and then divide it into 10 equal balls.
Smaller portions of dough will become smaller, thinner tahiniopita, which will be crispier than big buns.
Cover with a damp cloth and deal with one ball at a time.
Don't be afraid to rest the dough. After a few minutes, you'll find it a lot easier to handle.
Roll each ball out thinly into a rectangle. Ideally, it should be 2-3m thick.
Spread a thin, complete layer of the tahini mix, leaving a 2 cm border on all the edges.
Fold the edges in slightly and then roll into a cigar shape.
Now, roll out with your hands to create a thin snake; the longer, the better. You can also twist it slightly to create more layers.
Finally, coil it into a snail, tucking the loose end underneath, then flatten firmly with your palm or a rolling pin to 1cm thick. You need to create a flat disc with visible spirals.
Place the spiral on a prepared baking sheet and continue until all the portions of dough have had the same treatment.
Cover and leave until puffy (approximately 20 - 30 minutes). You're after some rise but not pillowy.
Preheat the oven to 200⁰C FAN (220⁰C Conventional) / 390⁰F FAN / (430⁰F Conventional). This is quite hot for bread but will help the outside to crisp.
Brush or lightly spray the tops of the buns with oil and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
While they are baking, check that the glaze is at the right consistency to flick over the buns rather than drench.
Bake for 18 - 20 minutes until they are deep golden brown. Rotate the trays if necessary. The secret is to bake them quite dark, for in there lies the crunch.
Remove the buns from the oven and place them on a cooling rack. Flick the glaze over the tops to give them a shiny, slightly sticky crunch.
These are best eaten on the same day as baking, but they can be frozen once cool, thawed and brought back to crispiness in a warm oven.
Happy Baking!
and from the taste-testers?
